Thursday, May 28, 2009
Long Name No Can Say
Names derived from the national language normally only take up an average of three spaces in the computer. In comparison a full Uyhgur name, (first name combined with the father's name acting as their last name) can be much longer. The computer system at the travel agent's office was equipped to enter a name up to 8 spaces long. This gentleman's name, however, was a whopping total of 10 spaces. The man behind the desk kept insisting he couldn't sell him a ticket. He was denied his right to fly based on the length of his name.
There is a saying here that literally means "there is no solution". Often people say it when a task seems a little difficult or the normal means won't work. Coming from a culture where I have been taught "where there is a will there is a way" or "if at first you don't succeed, try, try again". It is hard to hear over and over, "there is no solution". This seems like an excuse to me, like people are just to resigned to the system to try to figure out new and inventive ways to do things. The longer I live here, the more I hear these same words coming out of my mouth. But the other week I refused to believe their was no solution. The guy working at the office kept trying to dismiss his Uyhgur customer and motion me to the desk. I just sat back and said "Oh no, take your time and find a solution for him first. He is here trying to buy tickets".
Even after 45 minutes the Uyhgur guy left empty handed, cursing and saying he was going to buy a bus ticket (now he has a 24 hour trip instead of just 1h 30m). Poor guy, his name was just too long, he couldn't travel by air.
Monday, May 25, 2009
Stay Off the Grass
That has not always been the view of grass in this country. In fact it is only in the last 10 or so years that they started to replant grass in the cities. It use to be considered an extravagant luxury that only those in the western world would waste land and energy to plant and maintain. I remember reading in a history book about how school children use to spend their study time pulling up the grass by hand in an attempt by the government to rid themselves of it. For years this place was nothing more than a concrete block. As green grass now finds its way into more corners of the city, its value on it is becoming more apparent. Grass is to look at…it is for decoration and to add to the beauty of the landscape…most definitely NOT TO BE walked on.
If these were lovely manicured thick green blankets of soft grass I could understand a little better, but most of the lawns are “butcher-cut”. My friend looked at it and remarked “…my father would have kicked my bottom if I would have cut our lawn like this and tried to sell it as a job finished!” It was uneven, patchy and dry, but despite that it seemed like a nice place for us to stop and rest.
We sat there on the lawn for a good fifteen or twenty minutes before we were discovered by the grass police swat team ( okay so it wasn't that bad). A young man dressed in his hotel suit was purposefully striding our way. He could have been out for a walk, or on his way to somewhere else but no, it was pretty obvious WE were the destination. He did not mince words, we were asked to get off the grass… it was not allowed for people to use this well established, butcher-cut strip of landscape to place their bottoms on!
Spring has sprung and we are enjoying it from a distance.
Wednesday, May 20, 2009
Your Asian Twin
While travelling I ran into a girl I went to university with, well at least I ran into her Asian twin. I haven't seen or really even thought about Wendy in eight or nine years, but there she was standing in front of me. This girl looked just like Wendy except for her Asian features, the comparison came to mind immediately.
She is not the first person whose Asian twin I have met while walking down the street. Some times it is a person's clothing, walk, or mannerisms that remind of a friend from home. Sometimes it is their voice or personality that makes a comparison pop into mind. Sometimes it is immediate, like the Wendy look-a-like that I only saw for a second across a busy street, and sometimes it is after a long interaction with a person that I finally realise who they remind me of. I have found peoples twins in all the nationalities out here. Once on a bus there was a Tajik guy that looked just like my friend from New Zealand, as blond as the Kiwi guy was the Tajik guy had dark features, but other than that they were the spitting image of one another. I have found peoples twins among the Russians, Koreans, Chinese, Kazak, Uyghur, Tajik and more.
It's cool to look past the obvious differences in features and find home in the faces of the strangers around me.
Wednesday, May 13, 2009
Text Messaging
Since most students here have studied English it is normally our texting language of choice, which gives me the upper hand. Some of their text are so funny based on grammar mistakes or uncertain of what the phraseology means. For instance was when one of my guy friends wrote me a text apologizing for forgetting something the day before, he wrote "I am sorry for yesterday. Have I chance or not?" Which was so not his meaning and made we crack up. I tend to save funny ones like this, until I recently found out from one of my friends who doesn't speak English how cute and funny in an incorrect way, my texts I write in Uyghur are.
Okay here is one that will make you laugh. My friend is a teacher and she recently wrote one of her students that had been sick a quick "Feel better soon" text. The students friend responds by sending her this flower message:
"Just now you showed concern to Peter. So, such is life. What makes us happy is what we have now not what we don't have. We should never complain of life where we live. One's fate is in the charge of oneself; happiness comes from one's heart; only one oneself can makes all come true; so come towards the good not the bad. Now matter how salty the teas are, a smiling face can always make brilliance fly around one, and no matter how long the night is, the dawn can always break the dark. So we should cherish all around us and never lose hope. May you happy everyday, dear teacher"
Oh the joy of texting
Monday, May 11, 2009
What's Missing
It is like language learning, you really only complement someones language if it is not that great. If you meet someone with an exceptionally high level of language skill, to the point that talking to them seems almost normal, then you would never think to comment on it. You take the fluidity for granted and enjoy the conversion.
The same is true for our appearance. There were thousands of Uyghur ladies walking down that same street, several who were much prettier than we were, but no one stopped to comment on them. In fact no one even blinked an eye or nodded a head in their direction, they were just there. We still stood out enough to make us a topic of conversation. They could tell we had tried, but obviously the difference was still enough to draw almost every one's attention and make us stick out like a couple of sour thumbs.
So I started a list:
2. Loose the glasses - it is not that all Uyghurs have amazing eye sight, or even that they all choose contacts. It is just that most of them have never gone for an eye exam, and have instead learned to live with the impairment. My glasses are the first thing I put on in the morning, even before the light, and I take them off after my head is on the pillow.
3. Increase the sparkle and lace count - What we wear to dress up in NA is what a lot of Uyghur ladies wear on a daily basis, they are all about looking their best and that means glitter. I am at least trying in this regard, buying more of my clothing from the local market, instead of having it sent over from Old Navy
4. High Heels - no matter how impractical and uncomfortable, Uyghur women's shoes must be high and they must be pointy ( this is one I will just never conform to).
5. No Camera - we took our camera all around town last week to capture faces and places that would demonstrate the wonder of the city when posted on this blog. Local people don't all have cameras, much less walk around town take such mundane and daily shots of the bread seller or the fruit cart.
6. The speed at which we walked- I really believe that the high heels do a lot to slow the women down.
Friday, May 08, 2009
What Men Want
"What Women Want". I have to admit to never having seen it, but I am up enough of modern pop cultural references to know that the premise is about a guys who is able to hear what women are thinking. Last weekend when my roommate and I were visiting down south, we felt like we were given a similar power, a chance to hear what men are thinking. No fluke accident was involved in our obtaining of this power, just the gift of being foreigners, and able to understand the language.As we walked down the street guys would look right at us and say things like "Foreigner" "Wow they look Uyghur" or my personal favourite that we heard more than once "beautiful". None of these men had any idea that we could understand a word of what they were saying, they thought the comments were just falling on deaf ears, so we decided to have a little fun and thanked them for telling us we looked Uyghur. It was a compliment considering that we had tried and were dressed very local.
Wednesday, May 06, 2009
The Miracle of Air Travel.
The trip itself was great. I was really impressed with the company, its office, and employees. They have an extra apartment that I will be able to rent. It is about the same size as I have now, but because of the cities remote location the price is half of what I pay now. Anyway here are some shots from around town.
Thursday, April 30, 2009
Stop me!
Can you imagine Birmingham, Nice, or Dusseldorf with people like this? This place needs a kick up the arse .
I remember reading this and thinking... "do we were really live in the same city? Is this guy walking down the same streets and taking in the same sights that I am?" I love this place, these people the sights the sounds and the smells as I walk down the street.
And then I re-read my blog from yesterday complaining about the cold and coal dust, and I realised how easy it is to compare life here with the comforts of home and find it lacking. Maybe because the memory of home is viewed through rose coloured glasses, or maybe in the culture stress of not fitting in. But when I started with my blog a few years ago I did so with the purpose statement to others "Join with me as I discover the wonder of this created world and the diversity of its people" A constant digression into the small inconveniences of life hardly fulfills that goal. So please promise me, if I ever start sounding as disgruntled or unhappy with my life here like this fellow blogger is, please, please please STOP ME!!!!
Wednesday, April 29, 2009
Cold
That is until the temperatures drop and my first floor apartment gets so cold. When it is damp and cold outside there is no way to heat our apartments, it is like I go around with popcicles as figures for the last two weeks of April. I have to wear three layers in the house, but some days can strip down to short sleeves when I go outside. I miss the days when every house has its own thermostat and temperature control. Oh to be warm again.
Wednesday, April 22, 2009
Milestone
Recently one of my blogging friends asked her reading audience:
Is what I write about really that boring, or do you just have nothing to say???
You can be completely honest with me. Why doesn’t the majority of my readers leave a comment (that’s you if you’re reading this)???? I am just curious.Monday, April 20, 2009
Lucky Me
Friday, April 17, 2009
Rainy Days
Men around here are known for wearing hats, called doppa's. They say you can tell where a man is from based on his hat, since each oasis town around the desert has a different pattern for the men's hats. The hats are all hand embroidered and are a piece of work to be protected.
Tuesday, April 14, 2009
Pee Pipe
Actually the Uyghur cradle, also called a bixuk plays a major role in the culture. These cradles are made of wood and are carved to be both beautiful and practical. Forty days after a child is born there is a special ceremony for him or her in which they are placed in the cradle for the first time. A child will spend much of the next two years tied into the bixuk, which is why is it often called the second bosom for Uyghurs.
As I said the baby is tied into the bed, they claim that it will help legs and arms to grow straight. His parents usually wind cloth about two meters long around the sleeping baby. This allows parents to do other things around the farm after the baby has fallen asleep, because there is no fear of them falling out. The pee pipe also negates the need to take the child out for changing and such.
To our western way of thinking it may sound a little barbaric, but it has been working well for the Uyghur people for generations.
Thursday, April 09, 2009
Wooden Pipe- Uyghur Trinkets Final Instalment
A: A high pitched instrument used by local shepherds to call the sheep in and help herd them homeward after grazing on the mountain side.
Wednesday, April 08, 2009
I Am 15 Going On 16
Ever since the semester started there has been rumors floating around all the campuses in our city that foreign students were going to be forced to move onto campus. Our school had basically said that students had until May or when their current lease ran out ( there are over 200 foreign students at our school, most of whom are 18 year old kids from other central Asian countries, whose true motive for being here is to drink, party, and have a good time living away from home). The school currently does not have on campus housing enough to accommodate everyone.
In the midst of this my classmates registration card expired and she was unable to get a hold of her landlord to go with her to register at the police station. The Police therefore gave her three days to move or she would be fined. She knew that she would soon be forced to live on campus she started to investigate different housing options. Our teacher knew of an empty apartment in her stairwell and arranged for a meeting of my classmate and the landlord. Since most tasks out here take a bit of a fight face, we normally find it better to go with a friend (someone to run interference for you).
The night we went to see the place there was no electricity (no one had lived there in five years). We used my key chain flashlight to peek around in the dark and get a general sense of the place. As we were leaving the landlady called a price that was significantly higher than what she had originally told our teacher. Even after a day long stalemate she refused to budge on the price and my roommate reluctantly agreed.
The following morning we showed up bright and early at the apartment ready to clean and polish the place (five years of coal dust can do a lot of damage). All of my roommates Uyghur friends pitched in and five of us worked steadily for almost 12 hours - okay so I didn't quite make it that long, but the rest of them did. Night came and no signed contract.
8:30 the next morning my friend was rushed along by the moving truck guys who had arrived 30 minutes early. Their efficiency is amazing, I wish I had taken pictures, these guys can carry six boxes of heavy books on their backs at one time up five flights of stairs. Which meant by 10
a. m. she had all her boxes moved into the new apartment. We then trialed the landlord for the rest of the morning as we went from office to office paying all the bills. We got back to the apartment tested the water and electricity, called a repair man and started to talk contract. This is when she springs on us that one of the bedrooms is not included. She plans to lock it and keep her stuff in it (without lowering the rent, or even acknowledging that it was one of the rooms we had painstakingly cleaned for her the day before). She asked to take the contract home for the night to go over it and so another day ended with no key in my friend's hand.
Day three ( the day she must be moved) greets us with a landlady unwilling to sign a standard lease agreement. She did not want to take responsibility for repair and maintenance of pipes and such. She had also made a detailed list of the things she was lending my friend to use in the apartment - things like the refrigerator and washing machine were expected on that list, but the plastic garbage can that you could buy at a dollar store that she wanted returned in perfect shape after a year, was a little much. These contract negotiations almost had both my friend and I in tears (partially frustration, partially pure exhaustion from the last three days). Each item she disagreed with on the contract made the knot in our stomachs tighten.
It was too much and my friend turned to me "Is that offer to live with you still open?" I willingly agreed - anything to save a friend from this nightmarish situation. So we told the landlady on the spot that unless she signed it as we gave it to her we were walking. Five minutes later we called the moving guys again, they re-picked up all the stuff and brought it to my house. Welcoming Roommate 16! She is unpacking boxes as we speak. The recently added Roommate 15 will still be staying with us 3 nights a week, and so my quiet house has become very active.
Monday, April 06, 2009
Traditional Medician Shop
Friday, April 03, 2009
Snake Skin - Uyghur Trinkets 4
B) Kids at home are often forced fed cod liver oil or other natural products for health purposes, here it is snake oil that is said to keep children healthy.
C) This dried snake skin can be ground into a powder and put in a medicinal tea. The guy at the dry good store will use the same grinder for your snake skin as he does for your cinnamon sticks, so that everything can gain that nice reptile taste.
Thursday, April 02, 2009
Roommate 15
Just a month and a half after my roommate returned to the states and I have already filled my extra bedroom with a new person. While yes it was true that I was enjoying the quite and solitude, it is fun to have someone around. My current roommate Patty is a Uyghur girl ( this really isn't allowed, which is why I have never lived with a local before) who is just staying with me three or four nights a week. I actually first meet her via Roommate 13. She is a fun out going girl- as you can likely tell from the picture with the tea cozy on her head, who teachers English at a near by training center. Her language ability is amazing, but she tends to get tired of speaking it after teaching nine hours of class each day, and so when she get in at night she prattles away at full speed in Uyghur. She was originally living with her parents on the other side of town. It took her an hour and a half on the bus just to get into work each morning, now it is only a 20min walk from my place. We share the same hobby of cross stitching, so at night we sit around like a couple of old women with our embroidery in hand chatting about whatever.
I threw her a welcome party the other night so that she could meet all of my friends at once. These parties are always fun and they are a mix of three or four ethnic people groups all speaking together using a combination of three languages. It was funny to witness how peoples personalities changed depending on what language they were talking. When speaking Uyghur people tend to be more boisterous and out going, which is a hallmark of their culture, when speaking the national language they seemed a lot more reserved and so forth. My new roommate is one of the few people I know that can be her same outgoing self no matter what language she is speaking. She really did impress all of my friends with her stories and quick sense of humor. I think it is going to be a good roommate experience.
Friday, March 27, 2009
Four Out of Five Dentist Suggest Miswak
I always include this trinket as kind of a joke, considering I have never seen a Uyghur person actually using one. They all do the same thing we do and go to the supermarket and buy a regular toothbrush. But these fancy stick versions can be purchased from all the street vendors who set up shop in front of the Mosques. The use of the Miswak stick as a toothbrush is not just a Uyghur thing it is a Islamic practice. While not actually mentioned in the Qur’an, the use of the miswak is frequently advocated in the Hadith (the words and traditions of Mohammed – which well not considered up there with holy law, they are said to be examples for life). In the Hadith Mohammed is quoted as saying “Were it not that I might overburned believers, I would have ordered them to use the Miswak at every prayer”.
I have to admit when I hold this broken off piece of branch in my hand I fail to see how it could even compare in teeth cleaning power to the “double- action- triple- rotating- head –super- toothbrushes” that are on the market today. But as I did some more reading on the topic I found out here might actually me some modern day scientific support for rubbing your teeth clean with a stick. Miswak, is a natural toothbrush made from twigs of 'Salvadora persica' tree. It is said to strengthen the gums, prevent tooth decay and eliminate toothaches, as well as supposedly eliminate bad odour, improve the sense of taste and causes teeth to glow and shine. Chemical analysis has revealed it contains 19 natural substances, beneficial to dental health. Miswak's natural antiseptics kill harmful microorganisms in the mouth, the astringent tannic acid it contains protect gums from disease, and miswaks aromatic oils increase salivation. Supposedly miswak itself tastes "pleasantly bitter".
Add to that the fact that it is disposable, biodegradable and the ultimate environmentally friendly toothbrush that can be carried in your pocket and doesn’t require water or toothpaste, and you have the latest in dental hygiene for those who want a green tomorrow.
